This was a second wet day, but not seriously so until the afternoon. We set out from Portree shortly after 9 am, and pretty quickly got fed up with the traffic on the main road south from Portree – this road isn’t very nice (except for the splendid scenery wreathed in misty cloud) and seems to be a succession of long drags and descents, perhaps the most notable being that to the Sligachan Hotel and campsite.
At Sconser we decided to evade the traffic by turning left at the golf club and quarry, taking a rickety little road round Moll. No traffic, no rain so we stopped for a drum up. This brought out our first midgies! A little further on we rejoined the main road for Broadford. The rain started up again, and about the only thing that kept us going was the sight of the prolific bluebells. In Broadford we stopped for tea and scones, and met three mountain bikers who we’d last seen on Barra. Also a couple planning to camp, and who seemed to have an optimistic weather forecast.
On to the Coop, where we bough bananas, banana flavoured milk (at last!) and a huge bar of chocolate. Shortly after leaving Broadford, the rain came on with a vengeance, making the 17 miles to Armadale very soggy. Still, while parts of the new road to Armadale are a bit dull, this is made up for by the woodland in Sleat, with many many bluebells (and wild garlic).
We arrived a the ferry terminal with an hour to go, and found it packed. It turned out to be pasengers awaiting the Waverley paddles steamer, and once that had departed the waiting room was ours, along with a large number of motorcyclists dripping everywhere.
We found the B&B with little difficulty, and quickly unpacked. A hot shower and we were ready to explore Mallaig!
Dinner was very good – excellent moules mariniere followed by hake with a mixed shellfish sauce and braised fennel. C had no starter and had scallops on lentils.
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